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Empanadas criollas


Apuntes de la cocina criolla.- La cocina autóctona ha mezclado, necesariamente, los productos que llegaron de Europa con la conquista española y hasta las fórmulas básicas de preparar la alimentación más tradicional mutaron con otras recetas y costumbrismos. A tal punto que la empanada, antesala de los asados criollos, tiene precedentes anteriores a Colón y, para colmo, lleva una aceituna, que según Mort Rosemblum, periodista norteamericano que vive en Francia y es un obsesivo de ese fruto que ensalzaron los griegos, "no es el descubrimiento que se hace en el fondo de una copa de Martini". Pero es posible establecer un inventario rápido de la comida criolla, tal cual se la considera. Se podría enumerar el asado en todas sus fórmulas, el locro, la carbonada, la humita y los tamales. Lugones se caracterizó por su discreto apetito y castizo gusto -no ajeno a la cocina universal- que quedó documentado por Félix Lima en Con los "nueve" (Bs. As.,1908): "Almuerzo criollo... Adora el maestro las empanadas caldosas, los locros, las carbonadas con choclos de Calamuchita, la humita y el navarín de cordero a la cordobesa, pero sin que esto sea obstáculo para que haga los debidos honores a un faisán trufado". Hay quienes incluyen en este inventario la salsa criolla, y varias comidas a la criolla: bifes, bagres y chanfaina (preparado con menudos y sangre de corderito). Las tunas norteñas permitieron la preparación de un postre: el arrope, sobrio pero más autóctono que los pastelitos criollos, pero menos consumido que la torta frita, infaltable en el universo gastronómico de nuestro campo y que puede marchar en las alforjas de las cabalgaduras, tanto como aún lo hace el charque o charqui. También es muy autóctona la aloja, bebida que proviene de la fermentación de la chaucha de algarrobo. No sucede lo mismo con el puchero, que es español, al que Santiago Calzadilla, gran cronista de comidas, en su libro Las beldades de mi tiempo (Bs. As., 1891) lo alababa: "Muy suculento, compuesto de excelente carne de pecho, una o dos gallinas, arroz, garbanzos, zapallo, tocino, chorizos y morcilla". Pero el criollo agregó choclo y el extranjero estofado, en esta parte de América, le sumó tomate. Lo más genuino y criollo no es la carne, que provino del ganado traído por don Pedro de Mendoza; no más de quince reses que se escaparon al trote por todo el territorio, para luego ser millones. Ni siquiera el asado con cuero es una exclusividad de la pampa húmeda, ya que se estilaba asarlo sin más en los valles fértiles del Viejo Oeste norteamericano según el novelista Fenimore Cooper (1789-1851), un estudioso de las costumbres indígenas. No obstante, Luis Pascarella, en Divagaciones de sobremesa (Bs. As., 1935), incluye un desopilante duelo de preferencias itálicas y nativas titulado Match de tuco y ravioles contra asado para exaltar las churrasquerías con sus "tiras rizadas, mollejas, ubre, tripa gorda y esas trenzas de chinchulines que se deslizan canturreando por el afortunado esófago". Lo genuino en América es el maíz, de producción anual y que contribuyó para que los italianos crearan la polenta y los españoles de Las Canarias, el gofio. El maíz blanco interviene en el locro, que es una voz de origen quechua y que designa un plato fundamental de la cocina criolla. El maíz blanco o amarillo, y hasta con trigo, que se muele, se lo deja en remojo, se cuece con carne, tripa y chorizo y se le agrega -al servirse- pimentón con ají fritado en grasa. El maíz blanco también es protagonista para obtener la humita de chala (que es la envoltura del maíz). Se prepara con choclo, que no es otra cosa que maíz tierno aún, rallado y con el agregado de tomate, cebollas y ají picado; todo frito y envuelto en hojas de chala. En algunas provincias norteñas, un asado puede contar con un buen camote, que no es otra cosa que una batata, tubérculo muy americano, cocido al rescoldo, rápidamente adoptado en España. En definitiva, legados de otras tierras y productos autóctonos llevaron a que hombres y mujeres del país pudieran dar aroma y sabor a nuestra propia identidad. Así, la cocina criolla se ha ubicado en un lugar de privilegio dentro del marco cultural mundial. Ella nos representa y es valorada no sólo por sus características, sino por su sello peculiar. Ese que la ha vuelto inconfundible y que fue creada por aquellos habitantes de nuestra tierra, entre la inmensidad del paisaje de nuestras pampas y la cordillera como horizonte. Y eso, es mucho. Gentileza de Marcela Fittipaldi ( www.lanacion.com.ar )
www.empanadascriollas.com.ar
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